Mountaineering World Championship 2013 (competitions class – rock). Regulations

                         Approved by                                                                                  Approved by

                     President of the Ukrainian Mountaineering

                                              and Climbing Federation

                                                         V.K. Simonenko

                                        “____”_____________ 2013

                President of Euro-Asian Association of

                            Mountaineering and Climbing

                                               E.V. Myslovsky

                                “____”___________ 2013


Mountaineering world championship 2013
competitions class

R e g u l a t i o n s


 1. Location and dates of the competition 

The competitions will be held in Ukraine, the Autonomous Republic of Crimea, the urban-type settlement Simeiz, the Crimean Mountains massif.

The Competitions will be held from September 29th till October 8th, 2013 in accordance with the Rules for International Mountaineering Competitions and with these Regulations.

2. Competitions Management

General management of the competitions arrangement and holding is provided by Euro-Asian Association of Mountaineering and Climbing (EAAC), the Ministry for the Youth and Sports of Ukraine and by the Ukrainian Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UMCF).

Executive bodies for physical fitness and sports of the Autonomous Republic of the Crimea and the Main panel of referees approved by EAAC and the Ukrainian Mountaineering and Climbing Federation are responsible for the sites preparation and direct conduct of the competitions.

3. Competition applications

3.1. Preliminary applications from national federations should be submitted not later than on September 5th, 2013 to the following e-mail addresses: , 

3.2. Those who applied for the competition should receive a confirmation of the fact that their application was accepted.

3.3. All the provisional applications will be posted onto the Ukrainian Mountaineering and Climbing Federation website  not later than on September 9th, 2013.

3.4. Personalized applications signed by the head of mountaineering organization of the country shall be submitted to the mandate commission on September 29th, 2013.

3.5. The Competition membership fee for each team, 200 (two hundred) US dollars, is paid on September 29th, 2013 at the place of competitions. All the payment notes should be provided to the mandate commission.

3.6. If a member country assigns a referee to the competition (pays the transport charges), the membership fee for one team is remitted. The candidature of the referee is coordinated with the competition managers till September 5th, 2013.

4. Requirements for athletes, terms and conditions of their admission to the competitions

 4.1. The Championship is held for male and female national mountaineering teams which will compete separately.

4.2 According to the approved quota the countries who have medal winners of international competitions of the previous year (Russia, Ukraine, Moldova) can register three male teams and two female teams, and other nations can register two male teams and one female team.

4.3. A team consists of 2 athletes and a representative trainer. All participants should be over the age of 18.There cannot be any substitutions of athletes after the mandate commission ends its work. The delegations can also include doctors, referees. Several teams of one participating country can be represented by one representative trainer.

4.4. The participants shall be provided with the routes for mountaineering rock class ascents which are 400m long and have sectors of 5th to 7th, A1 to A3 grades of complexity. A representative trainer is responsible for selecting athletes for a team and for the qualification of the participants.

4.5. The following documents should be provided to the mandate commission:

  • a personalized application of the national mountaineering organization;
  • an insurance policy which covers all the possible risks connected with mountaineering for the sum of not less than 10 thousand US dollars, for Ukrainian citizens – 10 thousand Ukrainian Hryvnias
  • a passport or ID certifying citizenship and age of participants.

4.6. All the participants should attend official ceremonies (opening, awarding, closing ceremonies) wearing their national sports clothing.

5. Order of the Competitions

 5.1.  The Competitions will be divided into two stages

5.2.  The first stage corresponds to the competitions in mountaineering technique – the so-called “School”.

The drawing defines the order according to which the teams start their ascents.

5.3.  During the second stage teams ascend peaks which are stated in the approved routes list with the indication of ranking according to the following plan – 4 ascents in 4 days for men; 3 ascents in 4 days for women.

5.4. Not later than on September 5th, 2013 the referees shall provide full information about the routes for ascents to the teams which submitted provisional applications. Right on the place of the competitions the panel of referees shall announce the revised list of routes from the ranking list which can be ascended at these competitions. All the ranking and itineraries are discussed with the representatives of the teams before the competitions start, which is on September 29th, 2013.

6. Competitions program

September 28 - Arrival and registration of the referees.

14.00 – 18.00 meeting of the panel of referees concerning the improvement of the methods of competition and refereeing, check of the competition routes readiness.

September 29,

9.00 – 14.00  Teams arrival and accommodation.

14.00 - 17.00 -  Work of the mandate commission and registration of the teams.

18.00 – 19.00 -  Meeting of the panel of referees together with the representatives of the teams. Drawing procedure in order to define the sequence according to which the teams start their school routes.

September 30,

09.00 – 9.30  Competitions opening.

10.00-10.30  School routes presentation for men and women.

11.00 – 18.00 - School routes ascending by men and women.

October 1,

8.00 - 18.00   School routes ascending by men and women.

18.00 – 19.00 - School results summing-up.

19.00 – 20.00 – Claims hearing, establishment of results.

October 2,

9.00 -11.00 – advisory services on the ascent routes

11.00-12.00 - selection of routes for the first ascent.

12.00 – 13.00 – registration of the routes the teams take.

14.00  -           departure of teams to the places of their routes

October 3,

06.00 - Teams start their routes.

October 4 – 5,

5.30-19.30  Male and female teams ascending.

October 6,

18.00 – The end of ascending activities. All the teams and all the team-mates are to stop their ascents and to get to the check tour on the top.

19.00 – 20.00 – Summing-up of the results, announcement of preliminary results, claims hearing.

October 7,

10.00 – 11.00     Meeting of the panel of referees in the presence of the representatives of the teams, establishment of results

12.00 - 13.00 - Winners awarding ceremonies and the closing of the competition

14.00 – 16.00 – press conference, activities connected with the commitment to sponsors

17.00 - 20.00 – exchange of views, resolution development, standing dinner

October 8,

10.00          - Departure of athletes

7. General rules for mountaineering competitions in School

7.1. Requirements for routes. A route should be 40-60m long. A route should have at least two check areas 15 to 20 m long each. A protection point of the referees (belay) is installed between the areas so that athletes could have a possibility to change the leader. Each participant has to be a leader (to be the first) at least at one of the check areas. The complexity of areas should comply with the complexity of future ascents. The route should have a start zone and a finish zone. A protection point and a descent point of the referees should be arranged at the finish zone, a descent rope should also be fixed there in order to provide a possibility for the athletes to descend from any point of a route. Marking of the restricting directions is carried out where necessary.  

         A route should have the terrain which is suitable for the participants to place interim anchors every 2.5m or less. Interim anchors of the referees are placed on the route for safety reasons – the first anchor is placed at the height of 4m, the second one is placed in 3m therefrom, further anchors are placed in 5 to 10 m. Interim anchors of the referees are necessary for the safety, it is prohibited to use them for ascending. They define the direction of motion and should be accurately marked.

         For each school route the route preparation referees develop a topo where a complexity category of all the areas, their lengths, the numbered sequence of the anchors of the referees and the distance between them are indicated. A route should be accepted by Deputy Chief Referee for the competition type and Deputy Chief Referee for Safety, and a readiness certificate should be executed. A route topo is provided to the participants before the drawing of the sequence according to which teams start their routes takes place.

7.2 . School competitions – climbing with rope-mates

One hour before the start time a presentation of the climbing within a route takes place. After the presentation Deputy Referee for the competition type has 10 minutes to answer questions raised by the participants. Only the answers of Deputy Referee for the competition type should be considered as official ones. After the demonstration all the teams should submit the names of their first leading rope-mates.

In order to pass routes the participants provide themselves with all the necessary belay equipment which should comply with the safety requirements of UIAA.

7.2.1. There is an open start. Guidance along the routes and all the hints are prohibited and may be considered to be a violation of discipline.

7.2.2. Personal numbers the participants receive in accordance with the drawing procedure should be displayed on the helmets and on their backs. The teams are called to the start zone in accordance with the start list. The equipment and all the knots on the rope which binds the participants should be approved by the referee at the start. A safety rope is fixed on the participant’s harness either with the help of 2 carabiners where it is compulsory to fix it with a coupling or by means of tying it into the harness with the use of figure-eight knots and an overhand knot. Marks are made on the rope at the distance of 2.5 m from the knots to detect a violation corresponding to item 8.1 of the penalty table (Table 1).

After examination is done, the participants proceed to the start zone, they have one minute before the start and then the race starts. The teams finish their routes only when the second team-mate achieves the top belay station and the athlete is anchored, as well as when the control time expires or when there are some other conditions within the items 2 to 5 specified in Table 1. A descent of the team is not counted.

7.2.3. Leading team-mates secure themselves with the use of the hooks of the referees (belay) and a belay device (figure-eight descender, plate, “glass”, Munter hitch) which is fixed on an athlete, it is forbidden to use automatic or semiautomatic belay devices. Lower team-mates secure themselves through a belay device which is fixed on a belay. It is obligatory to block belay hooks by a runner of a thick rope or by slings.

7.2.4. The method for passing check areas of a route is free climbing. If athletes use artificial support points, they will be penalized with deductions. It is forbidden to use extension hooks and to place bolt holes. Before passing the following section, all the equipment is to be removed from the previous section. If there is a “pendulum” on the route, the rope is put through the pendulum carabiner by “clicking-in” and the following screw-tightening of the coupling. When the “pendulum” is performed, the participants are to gather at the interim anchor, put the rope through, tie together, present the knot to the referee and only thereafter to continue their ascent. Each participant is to attend (touch the carabiner with his/her hand) all the interim anchors, including the pendulum one.

7.2.5. The control time Tc (which is defined by the referees) is given for athletes to pass their routes; when the time is up, the length of an ascent which is covered by each athlete is registered. Interim control time may be applied for passing the first check area.

         It is forbidden to use intermediate anchors of the referees for ascending (to load them). They are used only for arranging protection.

An athlete can secure his/her partner only on the main protection point of the referees (on a belay) and only by means of specified anchors. The second participant should move only when he or she is secured by his or her partner with the use of a top-rope belay.

7.2.6. The distance covered by each participant is defined by the upper protection point which is still in and where the participant’s rope or self-protection is clipped through. The distance covered by a lower participant who is still moving is defined by the level where his or her feet are.

7.2.7. For teams which came to the top of the route, the result is an amount of points as per the formula R = C×TB/T – F,  , where C is the base point for this type of competitions which is 2.0; T – the time of the team, TB – the best time shown at the route, F – deductions as per the table of penalties (see Table 1).

If a team does not reach the top of a route, its result is an amount of points as per the formula R = C×(TB/ Tc)(S1+S2)/2S  – F, where S is the length of the route; S1,S2  – length of sections passed by each participant; Tc – control time, TB – the best time shown at the route, F – deductions as per the table of penalties (see Table 1).

7.2.8. After the teams finish their routes they are obliged to descend to the start zone with the use of the rope of the referees and following safety measures; the teams should take all their equipment from the routes.

Table 1 – School penalties




Control time expires and a team is still on a route

Ascent is stopped and the time when this offence is committed is fixed


Loss of a binding rope or a helmet


Absence of a belay: a participant does not have either a belay or a self-protection  


Incidence and hanging on the referee’s anchor or the use (loading) of an interim anchor of the referees


Non-compliance with all the conditions for passing a route (change of a leading team-mate, pass of all the protection points, top-rope belay of a lower participant, collection of all the equipment from the passed area, violation of discipline, usage of extension hooks and etc.)


Skipping of a protection point of the referees

A team stops, corrects its mistake and proceeds, yet a penalty as per the formula 0,02C is incurred



Stepping out of the boundaries


Incorrect belay:

8.1. A leading team-mate gets more than 2.5m higher than the level of an anchor rope carabiner

8.2. Belaying or anchoring on non-interlocked hooks of a belay

8.3. Slack of the safety rope below the feet of a moving athlete or a belayer

8.4. Safety rope is not passed through a carabiner of a belay or through a braking device

8.5. Belayer loses hold of the safety rope which is passed through a braking device

8.6. Self-protection runner is more than 1.5m long

8.7. Self-protection (without a belay) on interim anchors


Incidence and hanging on a participant’s own interim anchor or the use of it as an artificial support point



Drop-out of interim anchors which creates the distance between the other anchors of more than 2.5m long


Loss of equipment, per each item missing


Remaining equipment on the route, per one item



Non-observance of repeated instructions of a referee for safety or a gross violation of discipline


8. General ascending rules

8.1. The right to choose the first route is given in accordance with the School results. The team which gets the most points is the first to choose a route. The application for a first route is prepared in written form. Later on all the applications for routes should be submitted on a first come-first served basis as the routes are finished by other teams.

8.2. The competitors are able to choose the next route only after they finish an ascent. Deputy Chief Referee for the competition type receives all the applications and registers them in the start record sheet right in the base camp or via mobile phone.

8.3. Teams manage the way their athletes start their routes for themselves in accordance with the rules of their nations.

8.4. Male teams make 4 ascents in 4 days. Female teams make 3 ascents in 4 days. The start time for the first route is at 6am for all the teams. The referees register the teams when they start and finish their routes. The referees survey and control the way the teams pass their routes.

8.5. It is considered that the beginning of an ascent is when a team crosses the start line (it is forbidden to try the route before that). The ascent finishes when all the team-members get to a final check tour provided that there is no equipment left on the route (fixed ropes and etc.). Routes may additionally be equipped with electronic start and finish detecting devices.

8.6. In case a team does not start its route within 8 hours of the submission of application for a route, the right to start a route is passed to the next team.

8.7. In case a team deviates from its route line, this team is incurred a penalty which is proportional to the length of non-covered areas of the route as related to the overall length of the route. If a team ascends an unregistered route or significantly deviates from a route (on more than 40%), this ascent is not counted.

8.8. The athletes descend from the top of a mountain with the use of a descent route.

8.9. Deputy Referee for the competition type manages and controls the sequence according to which the teams start their ascents.

8.10. It is forbidden to try a route before the start (equipment set up, practice and etc.). If one of the participants or both of them get on the ground, it is considered to be a fall out of a route. It is forbidden for teams to interact with each other when they pass a route. It is forbidden to hand the equipment over to other teams on the route, to leave equipment on the route for other groups to use it. It is forbidden to descend the routes which were approved for the competitions.

8.11. It is allowed for groups to interact with each other when they descend. It is allowed to hand the equipment over and to leave it when groups descend (dulfer ropes and etc.).

8.12. There will not be any specially provided off-days. Chief Referee or Deputy Chief Referee for Safety is able to close the ascending area due to weather conditions or some other safety considerations; in this case all the dates in the applications will be shifted.

8.13. A group can start a route only after the preceding group leaves the route or in 20 hours after the preceding group started its route.

8.14. Teams are to treat the environment with due care. It is forbidden to leave garbage on the routes and in the bivouac locations. It is forbidden to place holes for bolts. It is forbidden to use extension pieces or other technical aids which is not considered to be mountaineering equipment.

8.15. In case a team violates the Rules for International Mountaineering Competitions, safety procedures, these Regulations, this team can be disqualified or suspended from further ascents and the achieved result will be fixed.

8.16. If an accident happens to any athlete in a team, then neither competition points nor ascents are scored up for this group. An accident is a permanent injury (disease) which demands for the injured person to be transported by the rescue squad.

8.17. Each route is counted only once. If a team falls out of a route, the team is not allowed to second-try this route.

8.18. If a team organizes an overnight stop on a route, 10 hours are deducted from the total time the teams spends on the route – the time to arrange a bivouac and to have a rest. It is forbidden to pass a route during the hours of darkness (from 7.30 pm till 5.30 am) (the penalty is 0.1 points per each 30 minutes of motion).

8.19. On the last day of ascending activities not later than at 6pm sharp the entire team should stop ascending activities and get to the check tour on the top. In case a team does not fulfill that condition, the last ascent will not be counted.

8.20. Each ascent is estimated in points which depend on the route ranking, the time spent for passing a route and the penalties.

Total points for one ascent are calculated as per the formula R = Р + V – F,

where Рroute ranking which defines the numeral relative complexity of a route and which is indicated in the ranking list; V – technical science of a team which defines relative speed for passing a route V = 0,3×Р×Н/t; Н – height differences of a route in meters; t – the time spent for passing a route in hours; F – penalties in accordance with the table of penalties (see Table 2), including deviation from the route line which is defined by the length of uncovered areas of the route as related to the overall length of the route multiplied by its ranking, as well as including the motion during the hours of darkness. The length of uncovered areas is estimated by the referees when they survey the ascents and is specified by the description of a route.

Table 2 – Ascending penalties




Preliminary try-out of a route




Getting on the ground after the start


Use of extension hooks and bolts


Absence of a helmet


Deviation from a route line – estimated by the length of the uncovered areas X as related to the overall length of a route L.

Fх = P×X / L ,

P – route ranking


Motion during the hours of darkness, per each 30 minutes of motion


9. Safety requirements

 9.1. All the necessary safety measures should be applied in order to provide security at the competitions. All the participants and referees are obliged to follow the instructions of Chief Referee for Safety.

9.2. The places chosen for the routes should exclude landslides and rockfalls. School routes should be thoroughly cleared of live blocks, unconfined rocks, grass and dust. The protection points of the referees and belays should be punched by 10mm Pentzl bolts.

9.3. Belay equipment (dynamic rope, belay device, harness, jumar ascender, wedging elements, hooks, helmet) should comply with the requirements of UIAA. All the participants should wear helmets when they pass routes. Only magnesia is used for drying hands.

9.4. In case there is a hazard to the participants when they ascend routes, all the activities should be stopped, the hazard should be eliminated. In case a participant does not obey the requirements and continues ascending at the expense of safety issues, the participant may be disqualified from these competitions at the decision of Chief Referee.

9.5. It is necessary to have a qualified and experienced stand-by rescue squad in the ascending area within the period when athletes ascend their routes; the activities of the squad are managed by Deputy Chief Referee for Safety. Each member of the team should have a mobile phone with a Ukrainian operator SIM card (SIM cards are provided by the organizers of the competition) for communication with the supervising referees or Deputy Chief Referee for Safety.

9.6. Qualified medical specialists are engaged for the provision of medical support at the competitions. The doctor at the competitions is a member of the panel of referees. All the participants, referees and the host managers should follow doctor’s instructions within his or her competence.

10. Results summing-up. Claims

 10.1. The place a team achieves is defined by the total sum of points for the School activities and for all the ascents within the accuracy of 0.01 points. The group which gets maximum points shall be recognized as the best one.

10.2. If some groups have the same total numbers of points, the group which gets more points for ascents gains the advantage. If some teams have the same total number of points for both the ascents and the school, those teams are given the same place.

10.3. A team representative can make a formal claim in written form addressed to the Chief Referee of the competition. This claim is supported by a deposit in the amount of 50 (fifty) US dollars. In case a claim is upheld, this deposit is returned to the team.

10.4. The approved record sheets of the competitions are submitted to the Secretariat of EAAC in hard copy and electronic format.

10.5. The winners and runners-up of the competition are awarded certificates and medals of the corresponding degrees.

11. Special cases 

 11.1. Decisions on the issues which are not specified in these Regulations are made by the panel of referees after they discuss and vote on those issues in the presence of the representatives of the teams.

11.2. In case of emergency connected with safety issues, the panel of the referees together with the representatives of the teams may introduce changes into the Regulations.

12. Financing and athletes admission conditions

 12.1. The Competitions organization and holding are financed by Euro-Asian Association of Mountaineering and Climbing, the Ministry of Youth and Sports of Ukraine, the Ukrainian Mountaineering and Climbing Federation, by the competition sponsors and charitable organizations.

12.2. Travelling, meals, accommodation, voluntary membership fees of the participating teams are covered at the expense of sending organizations.

12.3. The competition membership fee is meant for refereeing organization (referees nourishing and accommodation, the work of the secretariat), coverage of the competitions by mass media as well as awarding the winners.

12.4. A country member assigns a referee (pays the transport charges) if the candidature of the referee is approved by the competition managers.