1. Purpose and objectives 

1.1.   Achievinggood sport results in the international arena;

1.2.   The strengthening of friendship and mutual understanding between peoples through participation in international sports competitions;

1.3.   Promotion of competition climbing equipment natural terrain, combining climbing enthusiasts, mountain climbing;

1.4.   The development of the district "Tuyuk-Su", as a unique and promising places for tourists from climbing and mountaineering orientation;

1.5.   Promoting active and healthy lifestyle through sports and climbing;

1.6.   Improving the sportsmanship of athletes;

1.7.   Revealing of the strongest world-class athletes;

1.8.   Improving the image of mountaineering as a sport in the international arena.

2. The organization and management of events 

2.1.   Overall management of preparation and holding of competitions is carried out Euro-Asian mountaineering Association;

2.2.   Direct competitions rests with the NGO "Federation Mountaineering and Climbing the Republic of Kazakhstan".

3. Place and date of the competition 

3.1.   Competitions are held in the Republic of Kazakhstan, Almaty, Mountain Trans-Ili Alatau gorge Tuyuk-Su (all sectors and routes are presented in Appendix 1);

3.2.   Dates: August 29 - September 4 2016goda.

4. Requirements to the competitors and the conditions of their admission

4.1.   To participate in competitions teams of National Federations of the CIS, sports clubs and associations in Europe, Asia and other foreign countries who are authorized doctor, the insurance policy, the document proving the identity and age of the athlete, who paid the entry fee of EUR 200 on the team;

4.2.   Team members from each country is not more than 3 bundles two man among men and 3 bundles of two persons among women (or mixed male + female), 1 representative, 1 doctor, 2 coaches, 2 judges;

4.3.   From country - medalist in 2015 additionally allowed for a bundle of men and women (mixed or male + female);

4.4.   From the Republic of Kazakhstan further allowed male and female ligament (or mixed male + female);

4.5.    Age group - 18 years of age. Have climbing experience, work experience in a bundle and insurance.

4.6.    The competition among the team of male and female ligament (or mixed male + female). Competitions are held according to the rules EAMA mountaineering;

4.7.   To participate in the competition athletes must have all the necessary climbing equipment meeting the requirements of UIAA safety;

4.8.    Responsible for the recruitment and training of the team are the head of the sending organization and the place of the competition - the representative and trainer.

5. Competition program

29   August: Arrival and accommodation for judges and competitors;

Installation workshop on rules and officiating EAMA;

30       August: The opening of the competition. Introduction to the area and routes.

Job Credentials Committee. Meeting of the jury, together with representatives of the teams, the draw of the first event;

31   August: Marathon for all teams;

1       September: Marathon for all teams;

2       September: Finals "multipitch" marathon (speed), men;

3       September: The final marathon "multipitch" (speed), women;

4       September: Rewarding. Closing of the competition.

6. Terms of the competition and selection of winners

6.1.   The first two days marathon for all - participants choose any of the suggested routes and climb, and they want to "multipitches" and climbing routes "trades" of their choice as the route of release. The first marathon route for each bundle defines the draw. Each route has a rating point.

At the end of 2 days, the finalists are selected on the amount of rating points Route points passed a bunch of two days.

The marathon final fall 8 male and 4 female ligaments. The finale consists of a passage of 4 tracks «multipitch" speed.

The winners of the competition are determined by the sum of the results of the passage of bundles of 4 tracks «multipitch" speed.

6.2.    The results of the competition are determined separately among men's and women's ligaments. Mixed bunch (male + female) equal to offset male ligaments.

6.3.    Points are awarded in the Marathon as the amount of rating points for the routes. In case of equality of points, the advantage is given to:

-   Bundle with the highest rating routes;

-  With a large number of routes;

-  Or is assigned to the same result;

6.4.   Points ligaments in competitions for speed, charged by the formulas:

-  For the ligaments that have passed the route to the finish: Bf = 100 * Tbest \ Tteam, where Tbest - best time, Tteam - while ligaments;

-  For the ligaments have not passed the route to the finish: Bn = Bfw * Hteam \ Hroute, whereBfw - the worst result among the ligaments, past track, Hteam - height lift cords, Hroute route altitude;

In the case of a tie cords held the super-final starts;

7. Rewarding

Bundles - winners are awarded with diplomas and medals;

Teams - winners are determined by the sum of the best results of their performances of male

and female ligaments.

8. The terms and conditions of applications

Preliminary applications submitted in the prescribed form before the August 6, 2016 by


The final application of the established sample submitted August 30, 2016 to the

credentials committee at the venue sorevnovaniyg. Almata gorge Tuyuk-Su, and \ b "Tuyuk-Su."

9. Reception conditions and costs

9.1.    All expenses for the secondment, food, lodging, payment of the entry fee, acquisition of necessary climbing equipment competitors are sending organizations or by the participants themselves;

9.2.     Training runs, the formation of the judging panel, competitions rests with the NGO Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing the Republic of Kazakhstan and the IEA "Euro- Asian Association of Mountaineering" (EAMA).

9.3.    The costs for the acquisition of diplomas, medals, cups, souvenirs, payment for work and travel expenses officiating team, rescue team, medical care competition produced by DShNKiSR, by the Committee for Sports and Physical Culture, Akimat of Almaty;

9.4.     Matters relating to accommodation, meals, travel to the competition, and other contact - ArtemSkopin, e-mail:, tel. + 7-777-6190157;

9.5.     Information on the conditions of the competition - Sergei Belyakov, e-, tel + 7-701-5998338, + 7-705-1061196.

10. Special Cases

10.1.  The referee or the safety have the right to amend the rules may close the area of the competition due to weather or other conditions affecting the safe conduct of the competition. The referee also has the right to change the competition program, in consultation with representatives of the teams, due to unforeseen circumstances;

10.2.  Teams are required to abide by the rules of ethics and behavioral ecology in the mountains. Treat the environment. Not permitted to destroy the vegetation, leaving debris on the routes and places of bivouacs, pollution and destruction of the routes.

A n n e x 1.


Sector №1. "Left bastion peak Oktyabrenok"

Height, m - 120-150.

The average steepness of the walls, degrees - 75-85. Sector Length, m - 200-300.

Maximum difficulty of free climbing (note - there and then - according to the French system of free climbing) - 7a + / 7b (not authentically based on trad routes A. O. Klenow and Lviv in 2003g. Specificity of relief: the upper part of the bastion is a overhanging eaves with the removal of about 5-7 meters, is very difficult in terms of free climbing. A large number of live rock and unreliable breed makes insurance difficult.

In terms of free climbing, the route has great prospects in the flesh domultipitchevyh lines 7c and above.

The left side of the sector, based on the inner corner, punched 5 climbing paths with maximum difficulty 6c free climbing up.

Sector №2. «The central bastion peak Oktyabrenok"

The height of 200-240 meters

The average steepness of the walls, degrees - 60-70

Sector Length, m - 100

The complexity of free climbing (Op) - up to 6c-6c.

Specificity of relief: the lower part of the bastion rather flat, with nice shelves and grassy. Watched a few options for multipitch. There multipitch (up to 6c / +

in a key location as much as possible). As another variant of penetration routes as possible to consider the sector 2A (located by the couloir).

Sector №2A.

Height, m - from 70 to 150.

The average steepness of the walls, degrees - 70-80

Relief: steeper and monolithic, the top of the insurance is complicated.

Sector № 3. «Right bastion Oktyabrenok peak"

Height, m - 100

The average steepness of the walls, degrees - 65-70 Sector Length, m - 50-70

The complexity of free climbing (potential) of about 6s and above

Specificity of relief - a large number of live rock. There is one ITO - not classified route (Belotserkovskii-Grjaznov 6A +).

Sector № 4. «Valery Hrischaty"

Height meters: 120-150

The average steepness of the walls, degrees - 60-80 Sector Length, m - 150-200

Specificity of relief: the array is divided by horizontal shelves, overgrown with grass. Between the rows of shelves are seen monolithic, sometimes overhanging walls, perfectly suitable for punching under multipitch.

Sector1, 2, 2А, 3.

Sector 1, 2, 2А, 3.

Sector 1, 2, 2А, 3. Left, Central, Right bastion peak Oktyabrenok"

Sector 1, 2А, 2. Left, Central, Right bastion peak Oktyabrenok"

Sector 4. «Valery Hrischaty"